Matthieu David: Hello everyone, today we are going to look into the beauty sector in China, and the report we published a few days ago, maybe two weeks ago about how Covid-19 impacted the beauty sector in China. How it impacted during the epidemic and after the epidemic. I’m here to talk about the report with Allison Malmsten who has worked on the report and we will like to share today with the audience a few conclusions we had on the report, especially Alison you mentioned, an overview of the beauty sector before Covid-19 and some of the trends which came out of this and which were a change in the sector. What kind of changes and differences did you see before Covid-19 and just after Covid-19 in China.

Allison Malmsten: Right, hi – so I am Allison, one of the marketing managers at Daxue Consulting. So, first, China’s beauty market is by no means small, it’s the second-largest in the world at over 300 billion renminbi in annual revenue. Skincare taken 54% of the beauty sector in China and some trends that we saw before Covid-19 were – 1] the high-end segment was growing proportionately faster, so high-end brand segment was growing at 18% year on year while the mass brands were only growing at 5% year on year. 2] Second is that social commerce is blossoming, this is Xiaohongshu and also WeChat has its own platform called 有赞 (youzan) and what we saw is on these platforms, especially for the beauty sector in China the conversion rate is pretty high, and so this is kind of a new way of shopping and the year on year growth for Xiaohongshu was double in 2019. Lastly, there’s a rising preference for a domestic brand. Looking at the top 20 beauty brands in China, in 2012 only 7.6% of them were Chinese while in 2018 14% of the top 20 beauty brands in China were domestic Chinese brands, so this growth is pretty significant.

Matthieu David: Very interesting, it seems that the Covid-19 accelerated some trends which were already happening before such as social commerce, Xiaohongshu being one example, that’s what existed before, and the epidemic was let’s say a time where people had more time to spend online and to do social commerce. Do you have the same analysis at the trend that is not necessarily new, whether they have been accelerated with Covid-19?

Allison Malmsten: Right so out of the three trends I mentioned, yes, the social commerce is definitely even more significant now because obviously during the pandemic people were less willing to go to offline stores and they were doing more live stream shopping and more shopping on Xiaohongshu and KOL marketing is definitely very important during this time. There is one trend that might take a turn and that is the high-end segment was growing very fast before and we might see the slowdown as people will be preferred – they’ll be looking more at ingredients and less at brand names, so this could give a chance to any brands that focus on natural ingredients and focus on skin health and skin repair.

Matthieu David: Very interesting to see indeed, in the report we mentioned that Chinese consumers online were looking at the ingredients and at the quality of the beauty product they were buying, more than before and I think within the report we found out that not all the categories went up and for instance make up went down if my memory is correct and specifically some beauty products and financing on natural ingredients grew faster.

Allison Malmsten: Yeah so, cosmetics were hit the hardest. A McKinsey survey showed that 44% of respondents purchased less make up, while 31% purchased less skincare but then also 25% of people purchased more skin care so it’s kind of balanced out but yeah and then within makeup, obviously lipstick pretty much because everybody is wearing a mask, so there’s a beauty style now called the ko [inaudible 05:00] its makeup for wearing masks, so the focus is really on the eyes and also the skin and so the skin care sector, it did take a bit of a hit but it’s also doing pretty okay and a lot of the focus when people are at home – our social listening showed that a lot of people are talking about its time to be at home and they’re wearing less makeup so they see that their skin is getting healthier so they’re very excited about those results and it inspires them to purchase more skincare products, while at the same time wearing a mask for a long time can be very damaging to the skin, so a lot of people are searching for products that have skincare repair functions and also skin sensitivity is a big keyword now. A lot of people are finding that they have sensitive skin and they’re looking for skincare products that can help repair their skin damage from wearing a mask including anything like natural ingredients are really popular right now.

Matthieu David: And some of the comments we found online through social listening were saying that people were switching from makeup to skincare instead of putting makeup to take more care about their skin with specific products, I would say more natural products. I’d like to go back on the Chinese brands – you mentioned that Chinese brands took off during the Covid-19 lockdown and after the Covid-19. Do you see here long-term trend or it’s just short term and was during the epidemic, or do you see a substantial change which is going to stay?

Allison Malmsten: I think that this is going to – the preference for domestic brands, I think this is going to be a long-term trend. I think this is a trend that was accelerated from Covid-19 and the reasons are 1] because patriotism is a very high right now in general, 2] because also domestic brands really understand Chinese consumers and they understand how to reach them. They’re usually very proactive about social commerce and also, they are familiar with like some Chinese herbal ingredients that are very in right now and so they include those in their ingredient list and yeah, I think that a lot of Chinese brands are gaining momentum right now.

Matthieu David: And we looked into a very specific brand called Perfect Diary in the past and it’s a very, very Chinese company which is doing very well. In a topic, we’d actually like to talk about which is product traffic and Perfect Diary has been an example of being very good at product traffic. Product traffic being something very specific to china where e-commerce started with marketplaces like Taobao and then Tmall and then JingDong and many other marketplaces where having your own website and selling through your own website was not mainstream and now its becoming more the case – not selling through your own website, but your website, your WeChat groups, your WeChat channels and your live streaming. So, using a marketing platform to convert on your own asset, your own digital asset, and not through a marketplace. What did you see in terms of digital changes during the pandemic and after?

Allison Malmsten: So, I saw some digital changes, one like you mentioned private traffic and then two is also live streaming. Live stream obviously ballooned under lockdown, while everybody was at home they spent more time on their phone and inevitably they spent a lot of time shopping on their phone or looking at products and so some statistic for that was that as of February 18th, the monthly number of live streaming events on Taobao ballooned by a 110% year on year. Also, Douyin, also experienced around 70 to 100% growth during the lockdown period, so a lot of brands are using live streaming now. And then also one case, in particular, is [inaudible 09:10] which is an Australian beauty brand, during the coronavirus they directed its offline stores to all sell on WeChat, so that is over a 1000 stores that would normally have offline sales, offline staff, they all went online during that period and they actually had sales of 6.3 million renminbi during a live stream event that happened during the coronavirus lockdown in china.

Matthieu David: I believe that the next step is to see those trends now continuing or if it was just a short-term trend during and after the pandemic.

Allison Malmsten: Right, yes that will be very interesting to see because once stores open up, I’m sure people are very eager to go out shopping again but at the same time they might be a little bit more cautious to hit the stores.

Matthieu David: Thank you, everyone, for listening and we will continue with new reports, we will go through together online.

Find the full beauty sector in China Report 

This article Market Tidbits transcript #1: Major changes in the beauty sector in China after COVID-19 is the first one to appear on Daxue Consulting - Market Research China.

Matthieu David interviews Vincent Djen, Director of Cheng Kung Garments and CEO of REMAKEHUB. The textile industry has consistently been a labor-intensive industry. In this episode, we explore what the future hold for the garment industry and how a circular economy fits into that. Are Chinese consumers already requesting fashion products made from recycled materials? Can textile factories be digitalized yet or is there still a long way to go before that happens? Find out the answers to these questions and more in this new China Paradigm interview.

• 0:00 Guest introduction
• 5:59 How did the current outbreak affect the garment industry?
• 7:51 Is the winter collection delayed as a result of the coronavirus outbreak?
• 8:17 The story behind Cheng Kung Garments
• 10:31 How and why did Vincent Djen decide to take over the family business?
• 13:28 Cheng Kung Garments – the current size of business
• 14:27 What are the highs and lows of a season in the garment industry?
• 17:05 How much of Cheng Kung Garments’ production is in-house and how much is outsourced?
• 20:53 Is China still the best place for the textile industry?
• 24:31 Why is the textile industry still so labor intensive?
• 26:39 What are the costs of using robotics for manufacturing instead of people?
• 28:56 What are the initial costs for entrepreneurs who would want to get into the textile industry?
• 33:01 Is there support from the Chinese government to make factories more innovative?
• 37:03 How is 3D printing helping the textile industry?
• 41:09 How does Recycling fit into the day to day activities of the Cheng Kung Garments factory?
• 44:06 Mechanical vs Chemical Recycling – how many times can a product be recycled?
• 46:42 REMAKEHUB – what and why have specific products been picked for recycling?
• 48:12 Why was adding traceability for waste products recycled by REMAKEHUB important?
• 49:42 REMAKEHUB – following the “Cradle to cradle” design concept
• 50:50 Do big fashion companies already use recycled products?
• 52:50 Is it easy to tell if a finished product is made from recycled materials or not?
• 54:03 Is recycling mandatory for companies or is it still an optional feature?
• 56:18 Are consumers already buying products because they come from recycled materials?
• 57:51 What are the challenges of creating a brand in the fashion industry?
• 1:00:26 What is Vincent Djen’s greatest business goal?
• 1:01:28 What books have inspired Vincent Djen in his entrepreneurial journey?
• 1:02:43 What does Vincent Djen read to stay up to date with China?
• 1:05:24 What productivity tool does Vincent Djen use to run his business?
• 1:08:25 What unexpected business success or failure has Vincent Djen witnessed in China?

One relevant episode

We believe, that China, with 20% of world population and as the second world economy, is impacting every single business, small to big. That is why it is a new paradigm. How does China impact your business is the ultimate question we will answer through those podcasts.

China paradigm is a China business podcast sponsored by Daxue Consulting where we interview successful entrepreneurs about their businesses in China. You can access all available episodes from the China paradigm Youtube page.

This article China Paradigm 116: Contributing to the Chinese circular economy is the first one to appear on Daxue Consulting - Market Research China.

Founded in 1946 by French designer Christian Dior, Dior is one of most famous fashion luxury brands in the world. Since its founding at Avenue Montaigne in Paris, Dior has always been synonymous with magnificence and elegance. The first womenswear collection by Christian Dior in 1947 caused a global sensation while leading the “New look” revolution. Until now, whether in fashion, cosmetics or other, Christian Dior has always been at the top of the fashion luxury industry. As China makes up 40% of the global luxury market, Dior also considers China as a major market. At the same time, Dior in China approaches Chinese luxury customers from both product side and creative side.

Source: Dior.com – The new look of Christian Dior

The fragrance, makeup and skincare products are under Parfums Christian Dior division has more than 300 points of sales at the moment in China.

Parfums Christian Dior

From year 1973 on, Dior has had its own R&D center. Over 200 specialists, biologists, pharmacologists and researchers cooperate with over 20 R&D centers in the world’s top universities and science institutes to develop the best products. Dior has always put tactile impression of products as an important factor. All its products bring a perfect combination of technology and joy.

The beauty division (Parfums Christian Dior division) of Christian Dior maintained strong growth, driven by the success of its classic perfume, makeup and high-end skincare lines. Perfume such as J ‘Adore, Miss Dior and Sauvage are big success in the market. Cosmetics, including Rouge Dior and Ultra Lipstick collection lead a trend among customers. Also, the high-end skincare products are growing well, especially in the Asian market. Dior is the #2 luxury brand in China’s perfume market.

Dior Pink City: Dior in China plays with pop-up stores

Source: Sohu.com – Dior Pink City is coming to Shanghai. A beautiful Pop-Up store in a fashion-savvy Chinese city.

After launching the Dior Pink City pop-up store in Macau, the pop-up store came to Shanghai in July 2019. As the first station in Mainland China, Dior made five themed rooms in the pink city, including Dior pink flower shop, Dior pink library, Dior pink urban spa, Dior pink music hall and Dior pink café.

In the Dior Pink City pop-up store, consumers had the chance to experience personalized fragrance trial services, get bouquets of elegant flowers, and relax and get massages in the spa area, experience High-end skincare Dior Prestige, print exclusive photos and finally get small surprises crafted by Dior.

Dior in China entered E-commerce on Tmall

Tmall, owned by Alibaba group, now offers more than 3,000 beauty brands and the proportion of well-known brands the platform to launch their online stores. The big name brands which have official stores on Tmall rose from 555 in 2015 to 84% in 2018. According to Alibaba, Over 3 million women buy at least five tubes of lipstick on Tmall each year. Additionally, affected by the COVID-19 epidemic, COVID-19 pandemic, luxury and fashion brands are paying more attention to Chinese e-commerce platforms.  Just after launching the brand-new Bobby handbag collection, Dior in China had new, strategic moves.

On June 2020, Dior launched its own official Tmall store, right before the Chinese online shopping carnival 6.18. However, only products of skincare, cosmetics and perfumes were available on the Tmall store. So far, Dior has already gained 335k fans within one month.

Dior collaborated with Liu Yuxin

Source: qianlong.com -celebrity live broadcast on Ju Huasuan came to next level

During the Covid-19 quarantine, the Chinese TV show ‘Youth with you II’ has been extremely popular among Chinese, especially among young Chinese consumers. The TV show aimed to select 9 girls to form a girl music band. Liu Yuxin won the first prize for her impressive performance and high popularity. Dior announced collaboration with Liu Yuxin on skincare collection ‘Capture Totale’. The live broadcast on Ju Huasuan (a group buying website) with Jing Tian (Chinese actress, also official ambassador of Capture Totale) helped Dior in China received more than 3k orders and over 2.5 million RMB revenue.

THE9, the girl music group that Liu Yuxin belongs to, was invited to collaborate with Dior for its Bobby bag.

Source: twoeggz.com – Dior invited the new group THE9 to promote BOBBY

Christian Dior Couture

Besides maintaining the brand’s unique style and elegant brand image, Dior fashion division (Christian Dior Couture division) also has launched its official account on popular Chinese social media platforms.

Dior has introduced limited edition Lady Dior bag for Chinese valentine’s day

Luxury brands, such as Burberry, started to use WeChat Mini programs to plug into digital China. For Chinese Valentine’s Day in 2016 (Qixi Festival), Dior launched a WeChat mini program for selling its limited edition Lady Dior China valentine bag. For this bag, Chinese luxury customers choose the decorative embroidery pattern on the strap. The bag was sold out within a few hours on the first day of the WeChat Mini program marketing campaign.

Dior in China made a great effort on doing local Chinese social media campaign and marketing campaign to reach a wider range of customers.

Source: luxexpose.com – Lady Dior Small China Valentine Bag Sold Out Within Few Hours Via WeChat

Dior became the first luxury brand to enter Tiktok and Bilibili

In the past few years, Dior launched its official accounts on popular Chinese social media, such as Weibo, Wechat and Red. On August 2018, Dior launched its official account on Tiktok (known as Douyin in China), making it the first luxury brand to use the platform. So far, Dior has more than 491.1k fans and 3.6m likes with 628 posted videos.

For luxury brands, Bilibili represents a chance to capture young Chinese customers, Gen Z consumers in China and familiarize them with their products and brand ethos. Generation Z accounts for 81% of the platform’s user base according to QuestMobile. The advantages are clear: although they may not have significant buying power now, this generation is expected to account for 55% of total luxury spending by 2025. Dior launched official account on Bilibili on June 2020 with totally more than 7k fans, 22 videos and 132k plays within a month. At the same time, Dior is also the first luxury brand to use Bilibili.

Dior will launch an exhibition in Shanghai

Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé exhibition in Shanghai in 2019 attracted a large number of Chinese visitors. Dior launched its Miss Dior exhibition after, and invited many of Chinese celebrities. This year, Dior will launch its exhibition in Shanghai ‘Christian Dior Designer of dreams’. Different from Chanel, the exhibition of Dior will showcase more than 70 years of the brand’s artistic creation to Chinese luxury consumers from an unprecedented Chinese perspective.

Source: Dior official WeChat account – The exhibition “Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams”

The exhibition will last about three months. Together with 8 well-known Chinese artists, this exhibition will open a new chapter in the history of Dior in China. A host of masterpieces, including 275 couture gowns, manuscripts and works by artists, are ready in the museum. Next the brand is inviting Chinese luxury consumers to explore Dior’s elegant world and spirit of the pursuit of dreams.

At the same time, the opening ceremony of the exhibition will be broadcast simultaneously on several Chinese social media, including Dior’s official Weibo account, official WeChat mini program and official Tmall flagship store. Additionally, Tencent video and Huawei video will also broadcast the activity.

Author: Qing Zheng

Learn more about China’s perfume market

Listen to 100 China entrepreneur stories on China Paradigms, the China business podcast

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This article Dior in China: A prime case of luxury fitting into a Digital China is the first one to appear on Daxue Consulting - Market Research China.

• 2:13 Adventi Communication – a company introduction
• 7:27 How did the need for a service like Adventi come about?
• 13:52 Is having a Ph.D. in PR advantage for starting a PR agency?
• 18:26 The SARS outbreak vs the coronavirus outbreak – how have these epidemics impacted the PR business sector?
• 27:27 Why are Chinese companies not pushing for sustainability?
• 33:48 Is the market the deciding factor for sustainability? – the reason GREENEXT was launched
• 38:48 Are there any companies in China that are making a name for themselves in terms of sustainability?
• 41:37 What other industries will be impacted by the need for sustainability?
• 45:40 What social values do brands communicate in China compared to the West and what needs to change?
• 48:42 Do Chinese consumers buy natural products for their own health benefits or for society’s health benefits?
• 49:43 What books have inspired Hong Zheng in her entrepreneurial journey?
• 51:17 What does Hong Zheng read to stay up to date with China?
• 53:23 What means of communication should people employ in order to get a good understanding of China?
• 56:48 What unexpected business failure and success has Hong Zheng witnessed in China?
• 1:02:00 Outro

We believe, that China, with 20% of world population and as the second world economy, is impacting every single business, small to big. That is why it is a new paradigm. How does China impact your business is the ultimate question we will answer through those podcasts.

China paradigm is a China business podcast sponsored by Daxue Consulting where we interview successful entrepreneurs about their businesses in China. You can access all available episodes from the China paradigm Youtube page.

This article China Paradigm 114: Bridging Chinese suppliers, brands and consumers to make sustainability core product feature is the first one to appear on Daxue Consulting - Market Research China.

Click to jump to sections of the guide on clothes distribution in China

• Fashion market overview
• E-commerce
  • Taobao and Tmall
  • JD.com
  • Pinduoduo
  • Brand owned channels
  • Social commerce
• Offline stores
• COVID-19 impact

China’s fashion market growth is not slowing anytime soon

The fashion industry in China has performed well over the past five years. Industry revenue grew at an annualized 5% over the five years through 2019, to total $324 million. Forecast shows that the performance of clothes industry in China will increase to $359 million in 2021.

Data Source: Statista, Revenue in the clothes market in China

Clothing occupies 1/3 of all online shops. The three most popular e-commerce websites for clothes distribution in China are Taobao, Tmall and JD. Forecasts show that 52% of total revenue will come from online sales in 2020.

Data Source: Statista, Sales channels in the clothes market in China

Though offline channels attract less traffic than online, they play a more important role in the purchase stage, accounting for 60 percent of all transactions. Offline conversion is almost 4.5 times as high as online. Chinese consumers buy 43 percent of unbranded clothes online. However, they tend to buy branded clothes in physical retail stores. When it comes to branded clothes distribution in China, offline channels account for 80 percent of sales.

E-commerce market is an essential channel for clothes retail

Taobao and Tmall – the key e-commerce players for clothes distribution in China

There are three major types of clothes brands sold in Taobao: designer brands, commercial brands, and fast fashion brands. In recent years, international apparel brands have accelerated their expansion into the Chinese market. In general, Taobao targets the fast-fashion category of middle-income consumers seeking diversified fashion. For example, Zara is also developing rapidly in the Chinese e-commerce industry.

From the perspective of key brands, in December 2018, the online sales growth of most listed apparel companies continued to decline year-on-year mainly due to the fierce online competition.

Luxury clothing distribution on Tmall and Taobao

Luxury fashion has trouble differentiating from counterfeits on Taobao

There are no official stores of luxury brands on Taobao platform, as it focuses on fast-fashion. Besides, luxury brands worry about counterfeiters, which are hard to regulate on Taobao. In 2015 Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and other brands filed a suit accusing Alibaba of being a conduit for counterfeiters. Starting in 2016 sellers of luxury products have to upload an invoice or authorization letter from the luxury brands, for examination by Taobao.

Tmall is an ideal alternative for luxury brands

51% of 45 top global fashion brands now have official flagships on Tmall. It’s a big uptick from previous years. Luxury brands that now sell on Tmall include Valentino, Versace, Isabel Marant, Coach, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, and Burberry. At the end of September 2019, online fashion retailer Net-a-Porter and its men’s site, Mr. Porter, opened a shop on Tmall too. They are offering more than 130 luxury and designer labels. However, luxury’s mega-brands, such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci, haven’t come around to Tmall just yet. But for independent brands and so-called affordable-luxury labels such as Coach and Michael Kors, the reach Tmall provides is particularly beneficial.

Data Source: Quartz, Share of brands Luxury China Index selling on Tmall

Fast fashion distribution on Tmall and Taobao

E-commerce accounted for 20% of Uniqlo’s sales in China accounted in the first half of 2020, an increase of 30% over the same period last year. The brand expects e-commerce to account for more than 30% of sales in the fiscal year of August 2021.

The growing middle class in China are mostly seasoned shoppers who have a long-standing relationship with online retailers like Taobao. If we look at top selling clothes brands on Taobao, Uniqlo occupied the top position in the brand store category. In 2019 on 12.12 they got around 5 million yuan revenue in one day.

Up to now, Tmall has attracted 90% of the world’s fast fashion brands. Taking Uniqlo as an example, the financial report released in 2018 showed that thanks to the strong growth of the Chinese e-commerce market, the performance exceeded expectations. Co-operation with Tmall brought Uniqlo space for lane change and overtaking. In 2019 during 11.11 festival after 16 minutes, the turnover was around 5 hundred million RMB. Uniqlo became the leading Tmall apparel brand.

Data Source: Zhiyi Technology, Top ten brand stores on Taobao

Does Tmall and Taobao have more domestic or foreign brands?

Domestic brands are key on Taobao

Despite that foreign brands started actively participating in selling on Taobao, domestic brands still play a key role. In 2019 among top 5 best-selling brands on Taobao during 12.12. festival four brands were Chinese. For example, Semir brand established in 1996, has become a leading brand in China’s casual clothing industry. It made around 600,000-yuan revenue during the 12.12 festival.

Unlike Taobao, Tmall’s top brands in terms of sales are mostly foreign brands. Good performance shows Handu Group. In April 2019, the number of followers of the HSTYLE Tmall Flagship Store exceeded 20 million.

Foreign brands turn to Tmall

Foreign brands like Levi’s, GAP and Uniqlo actively distribute through Taobao and Tmall. Adidas also established an online store on Taobao and Tmall. Adidas claimed while most of its sales still come from offline stores, the company’s online sales in the country has seen rapid growth.

Tmall has become the core position of global brands in the Chinese market. According to Tmall data, the number of global brands that have entered Tmall has exceeded 50,000. Such foreign brands as Uniqlo, ZARA and Monki participated in Spring/Summer Tmall Fashion show, bringing nearly one million new products to the Chinese clothes market.

Data Source: Yunguan data, China’s top clothes brands on Tmall

Clothing distribution on JD.com

The data shows that JD.com clothes industry went online in 2011. It became the second largest occupant of clothes categories in China’s B2C market in 2014. It has now become one of JD.com’s fastest-growing categories. JD.com’s key brand layout has attracted many well-known international and domestic brands to settle in.

Luxury fashion: JD can help with brand awareness, but not all brands use it

Louis Vuitton Group has no official store on JD platform. However, other luxury brands in China actively cooperate with this e-commerce giant. In 2017 JD.com and Farfetch announced a strategic partnership that created the premier platform for luxury e-commerce across China. Farfetch has well-established operations in China and is already the partner of choice for 200 luxury brands. JD will help drive further brand awareness, traffic and sales for Farfetch in the market. Such brands as Armani, Swarovski and Zenith have their official stores on JD platform.

Fast fashion is not a focus of JD

As JD.com initially specialized in tech, there are not so many fast-fashion brands on the platform. The key players are Vero Moda and Only. From the brand lineup, JD.com bags, watches and jewelry account for a higher proportion, while Tmall focuses on clothing and beauty.

Domestic vs. foreign brands on JD

According to JD’s clothing brand ranking, domestic brands prevail in different categories of clothing. Taking the category of “women’s dresses” as an example, we can see that the top 5 products are Chinese brands.

Source: JD.com, Top 5 products in “women’s dress” category

Pinduoduo – discounted clothing with group buying

Founded in 2015, the Chinese e-commerce platform Pinduoduo offers a wide range of products from daily groceries to home appliances. Counting 536.3 million active buyers and 7 billion products sold in the first half of 2019, the platform is essential for retailers and brands.  When looking at a product, users have two price options, a standard price to buy directly and a discounted price. Discounted prices are unlocked when users form ‘teams’ of at least two buyers.

Luxury fashion slowly join Pinduoduo

For most brands, Pinduoduo is not going to be as good of a fit as a platform like Tmall or JD.com. This is particularly true for premium or luxury brands, which after years of resistance have turned in droves to Tmall’s Luxury Pavilion but are as resistant to discounting and promotions in China as they are elsewhere. However, in 2018 such luxury brands as Armani and Givenchy joined the platform. It can give other luxury brands in China an impulse to cooperate with Pinduoduo.

Brand owned channels

Brand.com is key for luxury

With higher platform fees and increasing user acquisition costs, only 10-20% brands are making profits on Tmall. Thus, building brand-owned ecommerce channels may be more worthy of investment. Besides, the issue of fake goods sold on public marketplace is a common concern of Chinese ecommerce consumers. Brand-independent ecommerce platforms in China can ensure brands full control on the whole retail process. 

Louis Vuitton in China – like Gucci and Hermes – has ventured online but on its own terms. In 2017 it launched a standalone e-commerce site. The site will let customers buy Louis Vuitton leather goods, shoes, accessories, watches, jewelry, luggage and perfume. Vuitton is fiercely protective of its distribution as a means of controlling prices and supply.

Many fast-fashion brands using their own website for clothes distribution. For example, UNIQLO has its own web-based store in China. Customers can also receive the latest information including the weekly mail magazine and the latest UNIQLO campaigns.  Customers will be able to choose from approximately 500 different items of UNIQLO mainstay products.

Using own website is more common for foreign than domestic brands

Most of global foreign websites such as Zara, Uniqlo, H&M, Nike, etc. have their brand-owned websites in China. For example, Zara in China launched an online store back in 2012. The website offers online shoppers the same full range of merchandise for women, men and kids as the one found in physical stores.

As Chinese companies are aware of rising costs of e-commerce in China, they actively distribute clothes using brand-owned websites. For example, Chinese company Peacebird launched a variety of sales models during Spring Festival, such as discounts and live broadcasts on its online shopping platform. It invited fans to “cloud shop”.

Social commerce in clothes distribution in China

Xiaohongshu- the fastest growing social media platform for shopping review

Xiaohongshu is a startup that’s part e-commerce portal and part social media platform. It also has its own e-commerce mall to which the posts on its site can link. The company is backed by Alibaba and Tencent, and has 220 million users. The top 10 content are the categories of “clothes”, “hairstyle”, “skincare”.

With the rising of Xiaohongshu many domestic brands started using it to achieve sales breakthroughs. For example, in June 2020 the domestic women’s clothing brand Zhizhi and the Orange Desire held a brand day event in Xiaohongshu. 12 different fashion bloggers shared live broadcast, promoting clothes of these brands. After this event, both brands saw rapid growth in sales.

Using hashtag “fitting room” on Xiaohongshu, most of results will show popular fashion bloggers taking photos of themselves trying on clothing in a store changing room. Zara, H&M, Uniqlo and COS are the most mentioned brands with fitting room hashtags. The article will give a description of the items, what the KOL did or didn’t like about them (such as material and fit), the prices, and which items the Chinese KOL suggests buying.

Source: Media Production, A typical ZARA fitting room try-on post

Luxury fashion use Xiaohongshu for brand awareness

Luxury brands like Dior and Chanel actively use Xiaohongshu to increase awareness. The number of mentions of luxury labels such as Hugo Boss and Max Mara by users has increased quickly on the platform. In 2017, users mentioned Chanel 2.24 million times, with Dior following after at 2.14 million mentions. Meanwhile, Hugo Boss recorded a 271 percent jump in mentions, with Bally and Max Mara both achieving growth of 133 percent.

Xiaohongshu shows fast growth in Fast-fashion

In 2019 the search volume of brand specific information on Double 11’s Eve brand has skyrocketed. In recent years, Uniqlo, a clothing brand that repeatedly created sales campaigns during the Double Eleven period, has also increased its search volume by 148% during this period.

Clothes brands embrace WeChat e-commerce

WeChat is a key channel for Luxury fashion

Since Louis Vuitton became the first luxury brand to open a WeChat public account in November 2012, other luxury brands have also rushed to open service numbers.

For example, on Chinese Valentine’s Day 2016, Dior launched an online customization campaign for its Lady Dior handbag. Users could choose the accessories for a small Lady Dior bag and directly purchase it using WeChat’s payment system or Alipay. 

Data Source: LadyMax, Top luxury brands in WeChat by number of followers

Uniqlo set the pace of WeChat for Fast fashion

UNIQLO was the first brand to test the WeChat mini-program store in China. At the same time, it introduced smart shopping guides Xiaoyou and Xiaoyou Zongsha to provide consumers with a better-quality experience and make its omni-channel closed loop more complete, thereby targeting more consumers. Uniqlo has taken the lead in WeChat, a traffic pool with 1 billion users, and has introduced offline self-promotion and LED digitization in all e-commerce channels and physical stores.

Domestic brands

Domestic brands use WeChat to increase awareness and communicate with customers. According to statistics, such brands as Eichitoo and Li Ning have the best results in WeChat promotion of their clothes.

Data Source: Sino-Fashion, Top domestic clothes brands in WeChat

Foreign brands

Nike, Adidas, Tiffany&Co, H&M and many other foreign brands launched WeChat accounts in China in order to expand clothes distribution. Users are staying on WeChat more frequently and longer, but for domestic brands, it is easier to attract traffic, gain customers, and convert sales on WeChat. For foreign brands, wanting to enter the Chinese market towards it requires a lot of capital investment and months of account opening.

Offline stores still make 60% of the total transaction volume

Despite the enthusiasm of Chinese consumers for online shopping, most still prefer purchasing luxury products at bricks-and-mortar stores. These enable them to see, touch, feel and try out products. Besides, it helps to enjoy high-end customer experiences such as refreshments, invitations to private lounges, and other customized services.

Particularly in the luxury sector, offline stores are still an important marketing and sales channel, where consumers are engaged in a highly experiential way through activities and events that reflect the brand image of the retailer. According to a report by Tencent, in 2017, 95% of luxury purchases were made offline versus merely 5% of luxury purchases done online. Taking Louis Vuitton as an example, China has the third place in the ranking of countries with the biggest number of LV physical stores. It shows the importance of physical clothes distribution in the Chinese luxury sector.

Data Source: Louis Vuitton, Number of Louis Vuitton stores per country

However, between 2015 and 2017, 138 new leading luxury brand stores were open in China, yet 144 stores were closed, therefore the aggregated number of the leading 20 luxury brand retail stores fell slightly down to 1,119 in 2017, compared to 1,125 shops in 2015. It can reflect the growing importance of the e-commerce in China, as more and more consumers choose to shop online.

Fast fashion brands continue to open offline stores

Companies with ambitious expansion plans include European company C&A Mode, which has more than 40 stores and plans to have 150. The Japanese brand Uniqlo, one of the first entrants into the scene of the fast fashion industry in China, plans to open 100 new fashion stores in China and already holds 2.4% of all apparel and retail footwear values.

Foreign fashion brands focus on offline ‘flagship stores’ in China

A number of players have expanded local store networks and launched their first/ largest global flagship store in the country. For example, in June 2019, Spanish fast fashion brand Mango signed a cooperation agreement with Hangzhou Jingzhe Clothing Co., Ltd. to accelerate its development in Asia, especially in the China market. Under this cooperation agreement, the brand will further develop both online and offline channels – it plans to open 16 physical stores in China.

Brand stores in China dominate in terms of clothes distribution in China

At the moment, in Asia – and in China in particular –mono-brands dominate the market. More precisely, 95% of the market in China is mono-brand retail stores. Adidas alone has 11,281 stores in China. The only exception in Asia is Japan, which already has a mature market. Nevertheless, the multi-brand trend is constantly evolving.

Multi-brand stores are rising in China

Department stores in China are still an important channel for clothing sales. According to the statistics, in 2005, the monthly sales of clothing in the top 100 shopping malls were 4.9 billion yuan. 44% of the total amount, with an average sale of 100 million yuan, indicating that despite the rapid development of the apparel wholesale markets in various regions, large department stores is still the main channel for clothes distribution.

COVID-19 impact on clothes distribution in China

Data Source: McKinsey, Traffic fell during COVID-19 outbreak in China

COVID-19 outbreak in China influenced the clothes industry in China. Discretionary categories, such as food service outlets, apparel stores, and department stores were hit hard during the crisis and their recovery has been slow. Absolute traffic levels fell dramatically in all categories. Some 80 percent of apparel stores have reopened, but footfall in discretionary categories is still 40-50 percent below pre-COVID-19 levels. To engage with these dynamics, hard-hit categories such as apparel have ramped up their digital activities. In February, when coronavirus struck China hard, Taobao saw the number of livestream sessions on its app double. It is a sign to the e-commerce platform that brands are relying more on livestreaming to get customers.

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Data source: ASKCI, An analysis of the growth of China’s wool import volume and amount from January to July 2018

Among the different types of wool, Australia Merino wool is the most well-known and prestigious. Australian Merino wool is much better than traditional types of wool because it is comfortable on the skin and can regulate the body temperature. Furthermore, it has a natural antibacterial protein that keeps the hair from accumulating odors. All these qualities make Australia Merino wool stand out from other types of wool materials.

Future developments in China’s merino wool market

According to the free trade policy, China increased the free-tax quota of Australia imported wool. In 2019, the total CTRQ is 36,936 tons of New Zealand wool, 665 tons of New Zealand wool, and 34,729 tons of Australian wool. Due to the currency uncertainty and trade friction between China and the US, the wool market in China could experience a slowdown.

The 10^th Global Wool Summit in China delivered two messages to the wool market in China, especially for Merino retailers. First, the Merino fine wool (美利奴细支毛) price increased sharply in 2018 and will continue to increase due to the market demand and quality. Second, innovative design is the key to push the development of the wool market. For instance, wool is also now used in sportwear. Sportswear requirements differ from fashion apparel and fibers are often blended to utilize the combined effect of two or three fibers, a typical example will be wool, polyester and elastomeric fibres.

Making wool available for sportswear and underwear

AClink International Pty Ltd

Creative design and technology make wool a trendy material for sportswear. Two brands in particular that produce these kinds of wool athletic clothing have become popular in China. AClink International Pty Ltd holds the largest wool products factory in Australia. It has established a mature supply chain that includes importing, wool cleaning, carding, dyeing, spinning and weaving. The Auzwool Family, a subsidiary of AClink, produces a series of wool-made products that used innovative technology that allows them to produce wool T-shirt.

According to the interview, the founder Kim Tang says the standard wool products can keep the body warm however the fine wool can adjust the body temperature and make the wool feel light and breathable. This series also contains sportswear, socks and scarves. In terms of design, Auzwool chooses to corporate with famous designer Amy Jones. Moreover, Auzwool very focuses on innovation. It uses different kinds of fibres, such as Possum and Alpaca to blend with Merino wool to diversify the product. As of 2020, Auzwool has a 50% market share of China’s Australian wool products market.

Particle Fever

Particle Fever is a Chinese designer sportswear brand. Collaborating with The Woolmark Company, the exclusive Merino wool athleisure collections are designed to be worn during a workout as well as outside the gym. Under the theme of Fitness x Fashion, the Helen Lee and Particle fever collections are available exclusively in Lane Crawford stores across China and Hong Kong and the campaign also features Chinese supermodel and fitness enthusiast He Sui.

Source: Sohu.com, Particle Fever’s athletic clothing in China

Merino wool sportswear e-commerce marketing

Decathlon and Smartwool were ranked the first and the second in the research results for ‘Merino wool sportswear’ on Tmall.

Source: Decathlon Tmall shop

The keywords are breathable, soft touch, anti-ordor. Smartwool, an outdoor American brand, also frequently mentioned about the idea of breathable fibre and anti-ordor characteristics of merino wool.

Source: Smartwool Tmall shop

Other than product description and perks of Merino wool, Naturehike and Handragon both include diagram explaining what it is, while other brands seem to generally promote where it is from, the design, why Merino wool is good (dry, anti-odorl, warming, anti-UV). Naturehike and Handragon also has more than 50% Merino wool in that specific product.

Challenges and opportunities of Merino wool market in China

There are several reasons China’s merino wool market relies heavily on imports from other countries. First, China has a limited amount of sheep. The price of the Merino sheep is usually very high, and the output of wool is less than other sheep breeds. The second reason is the lack of technological support. Chinese farms have less knowledge and experience in the wool industry than Australian. As a result, with less professional farmers to organize the breeding areas, the yield is lower quality. On the other hand, this is good news for Australian wool producers who want to enter China’s merino wool market. However, the quality and output of merino wool are influenced by the weather, market price, and stock.

Top 5 merino wool exporting countries had a significant decrease in output in 2018 and 2019. Producers from Australia say the drought has a very negative impact on the output of wool, and many farmers need extra funds to deal with the drought. The wool price was push higher than other competitors such as Uruguay. The output of Australian wool in 2018-2019 was the lowest in 90 years.

In contrast, Uruguay increased its wool output in the last two years given the stable weather condition. Wool farms in Uruguay also have improved their technology that enables buyer to trace back the origins of the products. This not only guarantees the quality but also increases the competitiveness of Uruguay wool worldwide as it is traceable and certified.

Additionally, environment policy sometimes contradicts with wool production. For instance, “one billion trees” is a political slogan by New Zealand government in 2019. This programme aims to be achieved by 2028. One billion trees programme may hinder wool production as ranches convert to forests.

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Burberry’s China market entry strategy

In September 2010, Burberry bought out its first Chinese franchise partner in a £70 million deal, giving it greater control over its presence in the country. As of now, Burberry has over 57 stores in 31 cities in mainland China, including eight in Beijing, nine in Shanghai and three in Hangzhou. As China’s share of the global luxury market expands further, from 33% in 2018（when Chinese luxury consumers spent about $122 billion on high-end goods） to 41% in 2025 (when Chinese luxury consumers will spend between $173 billion and $181 billion), giving Burberry more market growth potential in China. Burberry’s strategy to enter China’s luxury market is mainly as follows.

Franchising

As a medium-cost method with rapid expansion, franchising is regarded as an increasingly critical method, which helped Burberry to enter the China’s luxury market with professional, local management. Franchising gives retailers the opportunity to build a global business in a short time. At the same time, franchising does not bring huge financial pressure on the domestic retail business.

However, the main drawback of franchising is the lack of control over the brand. Thus, it is crucial to find a right partner to eliminate possible control difficulties.

Flagship stores

Opening a flagship store is a method to enter China’s luxury market with the highest level of control and involvement, emphasizing branding rather than generating profit. Two years after seven openings of flagship globally in 2012, the “Dreams of London” was introduced in Burberry’s China flagship store in Shanghai. In the flagship store, products equipped with high-tech chips trigger multimedia content in the mirror, which displays the in the brand showroom.

Inspired by the global flagship store at 121 Regent Street in London, the space combines the best of British craftsmanship and materials. Burberry’s flagship store in China showcases the extraordinary performance of the brand, helping Chinese luxury consumers feel the multi-sensory image of the brand, aiming to increase brand awareness and achieve brand resonance.

Source: luxuo.com, Burberry Opens Flagship Store in Shanghai

At the beginning of expansion of Burberry in China, as the market knowledge and management experience acquired in the western countries may not be appropriate, Burberry tended to conduct marketing through low-control intervention, such as wholesale, franchising, concession, etc., to test the market reaction. After a few years, when the retailer had accumulated enough local experience and knowledge, it decided to accelerate its organic growth through the use of franchises and bring operations in-house. This has allowed Burberry to tighten its grip on brand identity at different times. Thus, maintaining the global exclusivity of the brand image.

E-commerce in China

Internet sales help international retailer measure its international sales if it decides to open the physical store in a new foreign market. As a market entry method to enter China’s luxury market, internet is a form of export that enables retailers to promote their products beyond the country of origin through online platforms, mobile devices and social media and establishes a direct and mutual relationship between retailers and consumers.

Burberry in China has accumulated about 1.51 million followers on Weibo, a very popular Chinese social platform, and the number of followers on Tmall sales platform has now reached 2.16 million.

Burberry launched its Wechat Mini program on Wechat on Chinese valentine’s day (Qixi) in 2018, the mini-program campaign takes the form of a game. The campaign encourages fans to play the game with their partners. After completing the game, users will be able to get access to Burberry’s latest collection, including two Qixi bags sold exclusively in China.

Source: Jingdaily.com – Burberry Launches 2 Handbags Just for China on First WeChat Mini-Program

Late last year, Burberry and Chinese tech giant Tencent struck an exclusive partnership to develop social retailing in China. Burberry and Tencent will pioneer a concept that combines social media and retail to create digital and physical Spaces for participating communities to interact, share and shop.

Burberry’s first step will be to open a store backed by Tencent technology that offers a unique experience that connects the social and online lives of luxury customers to their physical environment. This will be a unique testing and learning space, serving as a laboratory for experimental innovation that can be extended to other parts of network of Burberry in China.

Source: Burberryplc.com – Burberry and Tencent enter into exclusive partnership to develop social retail in China

Current strategy in China

In the past, Burberry in China has tended to adopt a low involvement and control approach to enter China’s luxury market, such as franchising, licensing and concession, to maximize its market share and sales. Having accumulated a lot of resources and experience, Burberry has recently started to use overseas partnerships to further increase revenue and brand equity through stricter control of its flagship, self-owned and other wholly-owned stores.

Target customer in China

McKinsey estimates that China’s luxury spending will nearly double between 2020 and 2025.

From the perspective of age, the post-’80s (Generation Y) accounted for more than half of the consumption of luxury goods in China, making them the main force of luxury consumption in China. In addition, two-thirds of the post-’90s generation (Generation Z), who tend to be only children because of the one-child policy, said their parents (mapping as Generation X) approved of luxury purchases.

In addition to target Generation Y (the current luxury consumer main force), Burberry also sees the potential of younger consumers. From the perspective of Burberry’s entry strategy and marketing strategy in China, Burberry has been continuously entering into various popular social platforms in China and launching events with advanced technology on the social platforms for young Chinese generation, such as the events held on WeChat Mini Program, which are deeply favored by young Chinese generation.

China, the fastest-growing market for luxury goods, continues to be underpinned by a growing middle class and the latest sign that consumers remain confident.

Marketing strategy in China

Multi-channel marketing strategy in China

Burberry sells five product categories (accessories, Women’s, men’s, children’s and beauty) in three strategic regions, Asia, EMEA and the US, through both online and offline channels. Although the global revenue of Burberry in 2018 reached 2,733 billion dollars, decrease by 1% compared with last year, luxury sales in Mainland China increasing by 20% in 2018.

The revenue from offline channels is larger than that from online channels in China; however, it is a significant channel to create a seamless brand display. Burberry adopts a multi-channel marketing strategy in China combining online and offline.

Physical store

So far, Burberry has operated 57 stores in 31 different cities of China, including two pop-up stores and one flagship stores located in Shanghai. Physical stores are likely to bring about a number of functions that cannot be replaced by online channels. The purpose of in-store shopping lies not only in goods acquisition, but also in the shopping experience, the social activities, as well as the entertainment.

Burberry’s stores in China are designed to provide customers with superior customer service and experience. Also, offline stores still account for the majority of its revenue. However, for Chinese luxury consumers buying brands like Burberry, offline stores can also help solve the problem of counterfeiting.

Integration of online channels

Despite its crucial contribution, the influence of physical stores might be geographically limited. Thus, the integration of online channels helps to create a comprehensive channel to communicate products and enhance brand awareness (regardless of regional restrictions). For the Chinese market, Burberry is present on popular social platforms including Weibo, and WeChat with seamless commercial accessibility on the platforms.

The seamless integration enables Burberry to extend purchase opportunities beyond markets where it has a direct presence. For instance, Burberry partnered with social platforms to allow followers globally to experience the flagship opening event like “Dreams of London” in Shanghai.

Moreover, Burberry invited the followers on WeChat to watch the women’s wear show at London Fashion Week (AW14) on social platform. As described above, Burberry launched WeChat Mini program for fans to participate in the game and release the limited edition bags in China.

The integration of online channels expands the accessibility through the Internet, because it dilutes the exclusive brand image and value of Burberry and promotes the brand’s visibility and participation in China.

Collaborate with Chinese celebrities and KOLs

In China, choosing a popular and suitable spokesperson via celebrity endorsement is a key to success. In 2016, Burberry introduced Kris Wu (Chinese actor, singer), who is hugely popular with the young Chinese generation, as the first non-British spokesman. Burberry’s retail revenues went from declining to growing by more than 20% in two months. The following year, Burberry announced Dongyu Zhou (Chinese actress) as the brand’s first female ambassador in Asia. Zhou’s unique temperament and extraordinary acting skills have endeared her to the young Chinese generation.

Kris Wu and Dongyu Zhou were invited to Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show at London Fashion Week. Burberry wanted to leverage the popularity from two celebrities to appeal to China’s millennial luxury shoppers.

In 2019, Chinese actresses Wei Zhao and Dongyu Zhou have landed new roles as the faces of Burberry’s Chinese New Year campaign. As an actress, director and pop singer, Wei regards something of national treasure in China. Since she starred in a hit TV series in 1998, she has accumulated a lot of popularity in China. Unlike the new generation of stars Kris Wu and Dongyu Zhou, the Chinese customer that loves Wei is more concentrated in Generation X and Y.

Source: luxurysociety.com – Zhao Wei and Zhou Dongyu star in Burberry New Year ads as downturn fears emerge

Creating cartoon characters as brand endorsements

To celebrate the Chinese New Year in 2020, Burberry created its cartoon rat character called Ratberry. Named ‘Bobo Rat’ in Chinese, it represents the Year of the Rat, which is integrated with the Thomas Burberry Monogram for the brand’s Holiday Collection. Also, Dongyu Zhou posted Hashtag #Ratberry# on Weibo for several times, interacting with followers while receiving many likes and comments.

Source: Chinafilminsider.com – How Burberry Won Over Chinese Consumers With ‘Ratberry’ Campaign

Burberry in China collaborated with different celebrities to appeal to Chinese luxury consumers of different generations. In attracting the millennial luxury consumers, Burberry had also consolidated current main Chinese luxury consumers. From this perspective, Burberry has set up a good model for luxury brand in China.

Luxury brands are increasingly partnering with KOL on social platforms and Burberry in China is no exception. In addition to Weibo, Burberry also cooperates with many Chinese local Kols on Xiaohongshu (China’s foremost social shopping and UGC platform).

Author: Qing Zheng

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A pop-up store is a short-term, temporary retail space that brands occupy. Regardless of whether the brands previously adopt a physical presence or not, it can be used for sales promotion purposes or for simply building connection with their existing and potential customers. Pop-up stores are usually designed or decorated creatively with the intention to provide a unique, engaging and memorable experience that can generate buzz in the short-term. It is apparent that pop-up stores are an effective marketing method, but what does it take to run a successful pop-up store in China?

Pop-up stores in China: An innovative new retail format to penetrate the market

Pop-up stores are often considered as a form of guerilla marketing that can help a brand to achieve strong short-term growth in sales, engagement or awareness.

Luxury brands open pop-up stores in China to connect with consumers

Brick-and-mortar stores play a very important and essential role for luxury retail brands as it is where brand story and consumer experience meet. While a long-term physical store is able to achieve so, a temporary pop-up store will be able to generate more excitement and a more unique experience for customers.

Chanel successfully launched a pop-up store in Shanghai named ‘Coco Game Centre’ two years ago. The Chanel arcade clearly went viral as people waited for over 2 hours outside only to get a peek inside. The store featured a make-up bar for customers to try on new Chanel beauty products, a series of arcade games for customers to win gifts such as lipsticks, lotions etc., and a few picture-worthy spots for customers to take pictures and upload on social media.

Chanel seeks to establish a closer connection with its customers through a pop-up store interaction. It is a fun and creative approach for the brand to create a unique, immersive and personal experience to the customers. The big Chanel logos upon the wall, and the red, pink and black colors all comes together in the pop-up store to communicate and convey the brand’s story and its core value.

With digitalization incorporated in the store, customers can scan QR codes and pay online at ease. In this way, they are not forced to make purchase, but are invited to experience the brand and make conversion in a more natural setting. Moreover, Chanel can also generate buzz around product launch and receive feedbacks on its new products. Big brands like Chanel usually has clear and defined target customers, in which utilizing a pop-up store will help attract right customers to give right feedback.

Online brands seeking an offline presence through pop-up stores in China

The best way for online brands to bridge the gap between their online and offline presence is a pop-up store. Pop-up stores are not only much more cost-effective, being 80% cheaper than a long-term physical store, but also is a great marketing tool in China to increase visibility and direct publicity.

In 2018, one of China’s biggest E-Commerce platforms, JD.com, tried their own version of pop-up retail in China —— ‘JD Fashion Space’. Its main object is to mix and match fashion, high-tech and Art Space. Consumers are invited to interact with the brand via digital dressing machines, shopping machines, games, and a designated selfie area.

Although consumers are becoming more digitalized than ever before, online brands like JD.com still seeks to create a cohesive brand experience offline to gain customer loyalty by opening pop-up shops in China. Consumers expect more different and engaging high-techs like immersive VR to become entertained in a technology-centric era. JD.com cleverly offered an interactive offline experience to their consumers’ taste, utilizing its digital strength, from VR fitting rooms to digital shopping windows.

As pop-up stores can generate short-term buzz, online brands can constantly remind customers their existence via both online and offline channel. This will be a chance for these brands to gain more potential customers offline and remind existing customers their online presence.

Other brands open pop-up stores in China to increase awareness

Other brands, regardless small or big, open pop-up retails in China to generate popularity in the short term and top-of-mind awareness in the long-term.

Last September’s pop-up buzz was all about a milk tea brand ‘Machi Machi’ because of its feature in famous Chinese singer Jay Chou’s music video “Won’t Cry.” The store in Shanghai, which will only be around for a few months, generated hundreds of people lining outside. The resale price of a cup of bubble tea was 10 times more than its original price.

The store has a photo-worthy wall for people to take photos and upload on social media. Many smaller brands like that will especially decorate its interior to make it more Instagram-worthy and hence more sharable on internet. These brands wish to create as much buzz as possible to bring popularity and boost sales in the short term, and the best platform to spread buzz is of course social media platforms.

Given that Machi Machi is planning to open an official store in Shanghai in the near future, pop-up retails in China are no doubt a fast, efficient and cheap way for small brands to test- new products and examine the decision to enter or expand the market. Just a few days ago, on June 25, an official Machi Machi store was opened in Hefei, Anhui province in China. The brand has positioned itself as a high quality and high face value beverage brand that has become a hot topic on social media platforms such as Xiaohongshu and Weibo. Regardless of what intention these brands hold, achieving awareness through a temporary pop-up store will be the key to further success.

Pop-up stores in China emerging as a major marketing tool for brands

Attribute to the success of many pop-up stores in China, increasing number of brands are seeking to generate more awareness and engagement through implementing this type of marketing tool in China. Although harder to breakthrough clutter in the recent years due to fierce competition, nevertheless pop-up stores are becoming one of the main forms of new retail in China.

According to a survey from storefront, 80% of global retail companies have opened a successful pop-up store and 58% willing to reuse the tactic. Pop-up stores are indeed a great way to fulfil excitement in those highly demanding Chinese consumers. However, if not properly executed or implemented, they will easily fall short and even generate an adverse effect then intended to. Customer expectation can skyrocket due to wrong location, failure to communicate brand value, improper execution or implementation etc. Therefore, it is important to carefully plan every step in order to open a successful pop-up retail in China.

How to set up a successful pop-up store in China

Define the goal

Defining  a clear goal for a pop-up shop in China is always the hardest. Although goals like increasing awareness, popularity, buzz etc., are essential, the decision to focus on sales promotion or just for pure marketing purposes will be the key to success. This decision is especially important to foreign than local companies because they subject to more regulations. Therefore, they need to be well-informed about China’s legal rules regardless which decision made.

Those who aim for direct sales, but do not adopt a corporate existence in China, will require partnerships, agents or distributors in order to engage in actual sales activity. On the other hand, pure marketing pop-up retails in China are much more simple to run, ruled under much less regulation.

The decision to sell the products or to market the products should depend on many aspects of company such as market share in China, presence in China, awareness in China etc.

Know your target customers

Millennials and Generation Z are becoming the most powerful consumers that all brands seek to understand. They are also a group of consumers who prefer experience over anything, which has lead the market evolving into an experiential-centric one. Therefore, opening pop-up shops in China that can engage with Chinese Millennial and Generation Z is a key to success. Brands should tailor the pop-up store to offer these customers different and personalized experiences and create an event that is both surprising and exciting to show them that they are no longer Dad’s Oldsmobile.

Find the right venue

The right pop-up store location is extremely important despite that it is often overlooked. The location can be anywhere: on a vacant street, in malls, in another store or event spaces. Regardless of where pop-up stores are located, the venue should generate enough foot traffic and buzz at the right time.

However, regulations need to be considered before picking any location. Unfortunately, due to strict rules in Shanghai and many other cities, pop-up stores are often only allowed to open in malls rather than on vacant street as no business will be granted to open in front of stores of or on side of the roads. Although street will give pop-up stores more space to occupy, shipping malls can offer a competitive edge for the brands. Shopping malls attract high foot traffic and right demographic, which makes it easy especially for smaller brands to target specific customers as they wish. Shopping malls are embracing pop-up stores as a form of new retail in China to save their lost traffic in the recent years, and more than welcome this win-win situation. Therefore, most malls offer convenience set-up process that will save many effort and time of pop-up stores owners.

Nars opened a pop-up store in Beijing in 2018 utilizing the open entrance area of Taikoohui Shopping Mall. The boutique was fairly eye-catching, easily grabbing people’s attention as they walk pass by.

Establish effective brand communication

Pop-up stores must align with and communicate core brand values. A consistent brand story should be narrated regardless of a press interview, a launch party or just a pure experiential store.

PUMA launched a pop-up experience museum in downtown Shanghai earlier this year, allowing visitors to go on a blockbuster journey of experiencing the blurring borders of reality and illusion. The theme goes with their featured new product, the “Future Rider” shoe, and allows consumers to fully experience what the brand has to offer. Added to the thrilling journey, consumers can enter PUMA’s flagship store at the iAPM mall nearby to win more products online. The purpose of the pop-up is not to drive sales, but to spread brand awareness. PUMA is inviting its customers to become a part of its brand and to be on their journey.

Be present on Social Media

In an ever increasing digitalized world, it is especially essential for brands to be present on social media, and of course will be the same for brand pop-up stores. Pop-up store in China relies heavily on short-term traffic and attention. In order for it to go viral and gain success, brands must encourage consumers to take photos in the store and share location on different social media platforms. Collaborating with KOLs and celebrity endorsers will be a powerful marketing tool to build anticipation and generate buzz before store opening. Stores can further enhance the engagement effort and accelerate social media impact by adopting hashtags that relates to the pop-up store theme.

Apart from traditional forms of Social Media like WeChat and Weibo, companies should also consider the growing importance of Xiaohongshu. Millennial and Gen Z spend their leisure time activity on this platform daily, searching up interesting places to visit.

When searching for pop-up stores in Shanghai on Xiaohongshu, a countless number of posts appear. This means that this platform has indeed became an important platform and marketing tool in China, which brands should utilize to generate buzz and increase traffic among its target customers.

Be creative and be exclusive

The most successful pop-up shops in China create unique and interactive experience for its customers. In order for a pop-up to offer a higher level of interaction and engagement, getting creative and think beyond simply selling products will be the key to differentiate from traditional retail.

YSL Beauté launched a pop-up ‘hotel’ in Shanghai early 2019 to promote its new product. The hotel was located in an Art Museum featuring three floors of themed rooms. YSL creatively incorporated its sales effort in this pop-up store. Customers are encouraged to engage with the brand through make-up station, digital interactive activities, and many photo-worthy spots. They are also invited to redeem YSL Beauté.

products using activity points earned along the way. In the hotel, they can become fully immersed in the situation and receive a unique and exclusive experience.

Pop-up stores are an effective marketing tool in China

Overall, successful pop-up retail in China will allow you to create awareness from potential customers, connect with your existing customers, learn more about their needs and hence better tailor your service accordingly. Plan your steps and utilise this marketing tool in China to make further developments on your brand.

Author: Chenyi Lyu

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This article The guide to a successful pop-up store in China is the first one to appear on Daxue Consulting - Market Research China.

China surpassed the US as the world’s biggest fashion market in 2019, according to McKinsey. The fashion industry in China has been flourishing and evolving over the past decade. Currently it is continuing to expand at an exponential rate. With the rapid urbanization and the increasing spending power of the population, markets for both high-tier and low-tier clothing are rapidly growing.

The fluctuation of Overseas Brands in Chinese Markets

Because of the improving living conditions of the middle-class in China, Chinese consumers have become highly brand conscious. In 2010, China’s fashion market was a $17.7 billion market where Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Gucci remain the most desired luxury brands.

However, in recent years, traditional luxury brands are losing favor among Chinese consumers. Instead, the so-called “light luxury” brands have begun to gain favor. In 2014, luxury consumption in the mainland market by Chinese consumers dropped to 11% percent year-on-year to $25 billion. The government’s anti-graft campaign has formed a more economical and rational climate among the people. Yet, luxury purchases made by Chinese consumers in the global market remain powerful. Chinese people bought 76% of luxury products outside the country in places like duty free shops. Asides from luxury goods, fast fashion companies such as Zara and Uniqlo have maintained a good momentum and are still popular among the young population in China.

Mass fashion and luxury goods are the most promising areas

In terms of market segmentation, the fashion industry in China is most likely to achieve good development in the mass fashion and luxury goods.  The mass fashion is mainly driven by competitors who stand out from the mid-market and have strong value propositions. Rapidly growing Chinese economy and the prosperity of the global tourism industry drove the growth of the luxury market.

Of the top 20 global fashion companies, 18 have presence in China, which includes all the fast fashion and luxury brands. The only two players which do not have a China presence are the off-price stores, T.J. Maxx and Ross Stores, which rely on the business model of bulk purchasing name-band and luxury products and sell them at a high discount.

Data Source: McKinsey Global Fashion Index, ‘Top 20 players 2017’

Data Source: Statista, official websites of brands, Number of apparel stores in China by brand

As we can see, mass market and such sportswear and activewear brands as Adidas and Nike lead in terms of number of stores in China. These brands have bigger target group in China, unlike the luxury brands (like Gucci and Hermes).

The top foreign off-price stores have not entered China

The challenges that off-price stores like TJ Maxx or Ross Stores would face in China are that as of 2020 Chinese luxury consumption habits are status-drive. Hence, luxury brands can get away at selling at a very high price in China. Additionally, Chinese can buy cheap products online, and have access to counterfeit luxury products for cheaper than discounted authentic luxury goods.

TJX, which operates TJMaxx, Marshalls, and Homegoods, makes 76% of its revenue in the United States, according to the company’s 2018 annual report. The remaining percentage is made primarily in Europe and Canada. As for Ross, it operates its more than 1,700 stores – Ross and dd’s DISCOUNTS – in the United States and the U.S. territory of Guam. These retailers buy unsold or excess inventory from brands and other retailers, meaning most of their supply chains start and end in the U.S.

However, a Chinese equivalent to TJ Maxx is being nurtured locally. Dadacang is quietly blooming in domestic third, fourth and fifth tier cities. This retail form covers clothing, beauty, home and other categories, which can simultaneously carry offline experience and online warehousing functions. Unlike TJ Maxx and Ross “Dadacang” has formed an online/offline model, which is easy to incentive distributors to participate.

On a similar note, the second-hand clothing market in China is growing a bit behind Japan and the west, but is starting to make-waves.

Domestic sales maintained rapid growth

In 2019, despite the impact of Sino-US trade frictions, fashion industry in China has generally maintained a steady development trend. The industry chain, value chain and ecology of the fashion industry have gradually improved.

According to data from the National Bureau of Statistics, in 2018, fashion clothes industry completed a total of 23 billion pieces. Since 2018, China’s domestic fashion clothes market has maintained steady and rapid growth. According to estimates by the China Apparel Association, total fashion clothes sales in China reached 3.08 trillion yuan in 2018, an increase of 7.32% year-on-year. In 2018 exports of fashion clothes and accessories reached US$157 billion, an increase of 0.3% year-on-year.

Data Source: China Customs, ‘Changes in the growth rate of China’s fashion clothing and accessories exports’

The developing E-retail Markets in fashion Industry in China

Chinese e-commerce is dominated by a few domestic giants, including Alibaba, Tencent (in Chinese: 腾讯) and Baidu. Fashion is one of China’s biggest e-commerce category. Most of the apparel purchased online proceeds on Taobao. With the cheaper price and diverse designs, shopping online has become the first choice for most of the population. The development of e-commerce in the fashion industry has prompted the domino effect of instant celebrities on the social media. The fashion style they led has greatly influenced young people, resulting in some of them creating their own brand and starting to sell clothes on Taobao.

Thanks to the rise of e-retail, domestic designs can finally gain a foothold in the fashion markets. Alibaba as of lately launched a new platform called “Tmall Global” (in Chinese天猫). It is a channel covering the purchase of overseas products. As the e-retail markets have been growing and developing rapidly in China, the fashion industry will become more promising.

The penetration rate of the e-commerce fashion industry is high in China

China’s e-commerce industry has developed early and fast, and after many years has become one of the important retail channels. Statistics show that the domestic e-commerce retail scale has increased from 1.4 trillion yuan in 2013 to 5.5 trillion yuan in 2017. It had a year-on-year growth rate of 31%. Forecast shows that the scale of e-commerce retail will reach 10.1 trillion yuan by 2020.

The clothing category is unique from other categories. Compared to electronic products, it has a high degree of personalization. In 2011, the domestic fashion clothes e-commerce market scale was 203.5 billion yuan. In 2016, the market scale increased to 934.3 billion yuan. The year-on-year growth rate was 25%, and the 2011-2016 CAGR was 36%. The penetration rate of clothing e-commerce has also increased from 14% in 2011 to 37% in 2016.

Low price is the key factor driving e-commerce fashion in China

The penetration rate of e-commerce consumption in first-tier cities is significantly higher than that in low-tier cities. Due to the high degree of informatization, high-tier cities have a variety of accessible material supplies.

The advantage of e-commerce is that the price is relatively low. According to JD.com’s data, by 2016, the proportion of highly sensitive and extremely sensitive to price consumers in the e-commerce reached 40%. The price is still the priority in the e-commerce consumption.

Data Source: chyxx.com, Public data collation, ‘E-commerce fashion industry consumption is highly price sensitive’

Prospects of the fashion industry in China

More environmentally responsible brands

Currently in China more and more consumers are demanding ethical practices and responsible retailing. In fact, the country has a key position in shaping the new green trends in the global fashion market. The global fashion industry is growing, and a great deal of that growth comes from fashion market in China.

Examples of sustainable fashion brands in China

NEEMIC is a high fashion brand based in Beijing, seeking to address both ethical and environmental consciousness within their label. Their clothing is made from organic materials, eliminating all artificial products from agricultural production of fibers.

Fake Natoo is differentiating itself from competitors with its production techniques. Fake Natoo creates the clothing using discarded clothes or donated textiles, making this a truly sustainable line.

Shokay is a social enterprise that creates clothing using yak down through a partnership with Tibetan herders. Furthermore, they are actively contributing to the development of communities in western Tibet.

Data Source: Shokay, eco-friendly fashion brand in China

These companies stand out as excellent examples for green development in the industry. However, their ability to overcome rising costs in materials, labor, and transportation, while tackling more active regulation and shifting consumer sentiment, remains to be seen in the long run.

Fashion market in China is trying to target millennials

Chinese fashion companies have yet to figure out how to appeal to millennials as labor costs increase the pressure to adjust their brand strategy. The Chinese millennials are more about individualism unlike their predecessors. The new individualist consumer was the inspiration for the China’s biggest fashion fair in Shanghai in 2019.

“The transformation that our industry and overall economy is facing is as steep as a cliff,” said Zhao Weiguo, professor at the fashion department of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University. “This means that there is a wide gap between past and future and everyone faces the question of how to leap over it.”

While China’s technology sector has produced international heavyweights such as Huawei or Alibaba, an equivalent fashion brand hasn’t emerged yet. In China it’s key to understand the rapidly changing and diverse demands of consumers born after 1980. They have more and more influence by their western counterparts. The purchasing power of these groups, which currently consists of roughly 410 million people, will only grow. Working with the internet age and the millennials, Chinese fashion companies have a huge potential to uncover.

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Two drivers of China’s counterfeit production

The counterfeits industry in China: a consequence of economic growth

The counterfeit industry in China is seen as a problem but it should also be studied as a symptom of economic growth. In 1978, Deng Xiaoping started reforming China’s economy. For the first time, foreign investments where encouraged. Many companies wanted to relocate there because of low wages and domestic potential. The industrial power grew and the country became the factory of the world as the the international production process. Global brands like Nike or Adidas have a part of a part of their production there. In many sectors, the country started to adopt new technologies.

While China’s living standards improved greatly, the new industrial power lead to counterfeits, as factories could cheaply re-create brand products. The counterfeit industry in China seems like a minor symptom of industrialization. Hence, even if it is necessary to tackle counterfeits, it was just the result of a growing Chinese industry.

China counterfeiting is linked with brand culture

Since the early 1990’s, the counterfeit phenomenon increased quickly in China. During this decade brand culture emerged as the opening of western luxury stores in country. Fashion brands became hyped, and counterfeits were a mean to obtain luxury goods without spending years’ worth wages. Since, fakes continue to progress fulfilling the domestic market of China.

In 2015, China and Hong-Kong represented 86% of the global counterfeit industry, which is around 400 billion USD every year, according to Europol. Thanks to years of relocating for foreign companies, Chinese factories now have the skills needed to copy almost everything. In Chinese stores, 60% of luxury goods are imitations and you can also find some complete fake stores who just looks like a real one. For instance, A fake supreme store opened in Shanghai. The counterfeit phenomenon highly increased following the luxury market starting in China.

Size of the market for counterfeit products in China

The global counterfeit trade for all items, from purses to electronics to software, is worth USD 461 billion, about 2.5% of all trade worldwide. That is more than the global drug trade. Despite attempts regulation, international trade in counterfeit goods has almost doubled since 2008.

According to the 2018 Global Brand Counterfeiting Report, worldwide losses suffered due to counterfeiting amounted to USD 323 billion in 2017, with handbag companies alone accounting for $20 billion of that.

80% of the world’s counterfeit goods come from China, and many of the market’s consumers are in China as well.

The market for fake goods in China

There are several distinct market segments of consumers who purchase fake goodsin China. The primary segment is buyers unaware that they are purchasing fake products. This deceptive counterfeiting is rampant, but the market for fake goods in China is largely driven by consumers who actively search for and purchase counterfeit products. 

Middle-class shoppers who value brand prestige make up a large segment of the non-deceptive counterfeit market. They can afford the occasional $500-$1000 bag, but not the luxurious $15,000 Louis Vuitton or Birkin. These aspirational Chinese shoppers purchase fake goods for the same reason the wealthy buy real products: to emulate their high-class idols, impress peers, and enhance social status. Fake goods allow shoppers to “consume” prestigious brands without actually buying the high-quality goods.

Some consumers knowingly buy counterfeit goods even though they could afford a genuine product. They have ample funds but believe that the high prices of authentic products are unwarranted, especially when they can get a similar version at a much cheaper price.

Chinese Fashionistas chasing the trends

Some wealthy buyers of counterfeit goods in China are known as “fashionistas.” These fashionistas want to buy the hottest new products, but know that another trend will replace it next season and are thus unwilling to invest the money to stay on trend season after season. Furthermore, they see counterfeit purchases as low risk, because limited-edition or recently released products are less familiar to the general public, making it more difficult to call out a fake.  

Buyers of counterfeit goods impose a hidden cost on the brand and people who buy the real thing: they make the brand less exclusive. All non-deceptive counterfeit market shoppers share one attribute: they are willing to pay for visual attributes and functions, but not willing to shop the genuine products. 

Government regulation of the fake market in China

Affected parties have previously complained that punishments for selling counterfeit goods in China are too light to deter offenders. In February 2017 Alibaba reported that of the 1,910 cases of suspected counterfeiting they passed on to authorities, only 129 people were found guilty.

In August 2018 the State Administration for Market Regulation stepped-up efforts to crack-down on the illegal production and sale of counterfeit goods in China.

The regulator announced strict punishments for online trading platforms that fail to protect the rights of consumers and trademark owners, or that do not actively cooperate with market regulatory authorities.

They demanded that other regulators such as the Shanghai Administration for Industry and Commerce launch targeted investigations into sales of counterfeit goods in China, and specifically called out offending platforms such as Pinduoduo.

The new China’s e-commerce law, which took effect on January 1^st, aims to discourage counterfeiting in China through heavier fines and places more responsibility on digital platforms to remove sellers of fake goods. The law also addressed false-advertising, consumer protection, data protection, and cybersecurity.

The new law targets three groups: e-commerce platform operators like Taobao, merchants who sell goods on sites like Taobao, and vendors with their own websites or who sell on social media. Merchants who sell exclusively on social media platforms had been previously unregulated, but now these sellers will need to register their businesses and pay relevant taxes.

In an effort to spur major e-commerce platforms to crack down on counterfeits being sold on their sites, the law makes platform operators jointly liable with the merchants selling fake goods. Previously, only the individual merchants were liable. Platform operators can now be fined up to 2 million RMB (USD 290,000) for the property infringement that comes with selling counterfeit goods in China.

E-commerce platforms crackdown on the sale of the counterfeit good industry in China

Taobao and fake goods

In 2015, Alibaba was the subject of intense state scrutiny as the State Administration of Industry and Commerce unveiled that only 37% of the luxury goods authorities examined on its Taobao platform were genuine. In a strongly worded white paper, state authorities criticized Taobao for lax internal controls, declaring that many of the products sold on the site were substandard, violated trademarks, or were just plain illegal. Chinese consumers agreed and called on the government to tighten supervision over Taobao. Alibaba declared a zero-tolerance policy towards counterfeits, and created a new 300-person team to ramp up the fight against fake good in the Chinese market.

Luxury brands were unimpressed, and in May 2015 Gucci, Balenciaga, YSL and other brands filed a lawsuit alleging that Alibaba’s negligence encouraged the sale of fake goods on its sites. A US federal court dismissed the suit, but Alibaba’s reputation as a haven for counterfeiters persisted.

In 2017, Alibaba was again under consumer and government pressure when Taobao was found to have over 240,000 vendors selling fake goods, up from 180,000 vendors the previous year. To assay consumer anger and protect investor relations, Taobao in mid-2017 launched an initiative to crack down on the fake goods being funneled through their site. That initiative has led to 95% of takedown requests and red-flagged listings being processed within 24 hours, a significant improvement in processing times. 97% of listings for counterfeit items are now deleted before transactions even take place.

How does Pinduoduo handle counterfeit items?

Pinduoduo, the third-largest e-commerce platform in China, is another site criticized for selling low-priced knockoffs. In August 2018 the State Administration for Market Regulation investigated Pinduoduo and announced that Pinduoduo should strengthen platform management and better regulate activities of third-party vendors. Pinduoduo soon removed more than 10 million fake items from its site and blocked more than 40 million product links suspected of copyright violations. It is working with over 400 luxury brands to fight counterfeiters and has created a hefty 150 million RMB account to refund consumers who were unwittingly sold fake products.  

How counterfeiters in China get around AI controls online

There are many intricate ways in which sellers of fake goods in China have evaded regulation online. One common trick is for sellers to redirects clients to separate websites, where they can browse options and place an order. Another method is to label items as “haute couture,” which consumers are aware implies ‘high-quality copy.’ Aside from this label, Taobao sellers can change the name of the brand they are copying, or display just part of it. One seller of copycat Zara clothes lists his items as ZA or Z*ra, which allows him to sneak past the filters set by Taobao.

Taobao’s AI tools are constantly upgrading to become more difficult to trick, especially with the introduction of filters against luxury products priced below a certain point. Accordingly, some sellers of fake goods will display a price for their product that is consistent with the price for the real thing, or display a price that is outrageously high. Interested customers will talk to the shop in Taobao’s private chat function, and sellers will reveal the real, much lower price.

In-person sales of counterfeit goods in Shanghai and Beijing

Counterfeit goods sold online in China work hard to avoid detection, but physical brick-and-mortar ‘fake markets’ in cities like Shanghai and Beijing are out in the open, easy to find and even reviewable on sites like Trip Advisor. Officials routinely inspect physical stores, but they may not take the job too seriously because they know local vendors rely on the income. Regulators let the stalls peddling cheap and fake goods slide, instead choosing to target merchants who lead interested buyers to unmarked apartments, back rooms, or closets full of high-quality fake Gucci, Prada, Michael Kors, and Louis Vuitton handbags.

Aside from avoiding government regulation, counterfeiters in China work hard to stay under the real company’s radar. One fake good peddler in Beijing explains: “We careful. Louis Vuitton. They send spies and they sue. So we hide.”

The emerging authentication industry in China

The prevalence of fake goods in China and consumers’ subsequent fears of being scammed into accidentally purchasing knockoffs has created a new sector: product authentication.

There are dozens of apps on the Chinese Apple iOS app store that offer to verify luxury goods. Authentication company Zhiduoshao has hundreds of thousands of users who pay 49 RMB for a product to be checked virtually by an expert. Founder and CEO of Zhiduoshao maintains that 95% of authentication requests can be answered online via photos. Authenticators tell users what kind of photos to upload, and then carefully inspect the monogram, fabric, and technique. Often, the process only takes a few minutes.

Similar app Isheyipai boasts an “expert jury” of 12 authenticators. Users upload photographs of the item in question and choose who they want to check their product. Prices range from 49 RMB for a junior authenticator to 99 RMB for senior staff. Appraisers each have areas of expertise, such as bags, jewelry, or shoes.

Private companies offer training courses that teach appraisers-in-training how to inspect a wide range of luxury brands and products, with advice about texture, logos, stitching and everything else that a counterfeiter might get wrong. A 10-day program can cost up to 40,000 RMB.

Authentication companies in China have an uneasy relationship with the brands whose integrity they claim to protect. Cartier maintains that their products should be bought only from “authorized sellers,” while Audemars Piguet states that it does not endorse any authentication app and De Beers says it is unaware of them.

Brand wariness of authentication services is rational because Chinese counterfeiters are now imitating these authenticators too. Seemingly authentic sites copy the names, website layouts, and imagery of established authentication platforms like Zhiduoshao in order to scam consumers seeking product verification out of their money. In one case, consumers discovered that an authentication app was faking reviews and authentications to sell knockoff goods.

How brands can fight back against Chinese counterfeiting

Anti-counterfeiting strategies must be brand specific to take into account the company’s target market, the types of counterfeits produced, and how the counterfeits are being manufactured, distributed, and sold. An effective strategy combines IP protection, export and customs controls, and retail market controls.

But no matter how sophisticated the anti-counterfeit strategy is, where there is a demand there will be a supply. The only surefire way to shrink the market for counterfeit products in China is to deter consumers from purchasing fake goods in the first place. However, typical deterrence strategies that luxury brands have used in the West will not work in the Chinese market.

Many consumers are aware that their purchases are counterfeit

Most consumers who purchase counterfeit products in China are well aware that the quality is not on par with the real product. When consumers buy fake goods, they do so despite the possibility that the product will fail them. Additionally, the prevalence of sophisticated fakes means that consumers can easily buy counterfeit products with nearly genuine quality. Thus, highlighting the poor performance quality of counterfeit goods is not an effective deterrence strategy for brands to adopt in China.

Where in other countries purchase of knockoff goods is a punishable crime, in China consumers are not liable for their counterfeit purchases. Deterrence of counterfeit purchases in China cannot then be fear-based.

There are two main deterrence strategies that luxury brands can adopt to dampen Chinese consumer demand for fake goods: the ethics emphasis, and the psychosocial emphasis.

Anti-counterfeiting in China: The ethical approach

Counterfeiting is not a victimless crime, and luxury brands should tell consumers who gets hurt when they buy fake products in China.

Most counterfeit goods in China are made in sweatshops by children and slave laborers who are often the victims of human trafficking. These sweatshops are overwhelmingly in low-tier Chinese cities, and these child workers are often Chinese, making the issue hit particularly close to home for Chinese consumers of knock-offs.

The Chinese counterfeit industry’s use of child labor is much more damaging than the use of child labor by companies like Walmart and Target. Corporations can beare held accountable for exploiting cheap labor: when labor abuses are exposed, companies face plummeting share prices, lawsuits, and customer boycotts. Counterfeiters face no such risk, because consumers of knock-off goods do not know who manufacturers their handbags or sneakers.

Brands can educate against counterfeiting practices in China

Additionally, brands can educate Chinese consumers about the criminals who benefit when a shopper buys a counterfeit good. Production and distribution of counterfeit goods are heavily controlled by ultraviolent Chinese triads, who traffic in narcotics and sex slavery alongside fake products.

Consumer awareness of the hidden costs associated with their counterfeit purchase can create shame and guilt that might deter some Chinese consumers from buying knock-off goods.

Anti-counterfeiting in China: The psychosocial approach

In the West, there is a shame that comes when one admits to buying counterfeit products, and luxury brands should work hard to foster that stigma in China. For some people, the regular purchase of fake goods is a normal part of life: many Chinese consumers who own fake goods assume that the luxury brands sported by their peers are fake as well.

In 2018 the Japan Patent Office launched an anti-counterfeiting campaign that revolved around embarrassing consumers who buy knock-off products.

It is too early to see the results of Japan’s shame-based anti-counterfeit strategy, but the premise is solid. Luxury brands effected by Chinese counterfeiting could emulate the approach, and work to create a social stigma against knock-offs.

Across the board, the most effective strategies to deter Chinese consumers from buying counterfeit products are shame-based.

Who is benefiting from the counterfeits industry in China?

China is responsible for more than 70% of counterfeiting according to the World Customs Organization. Where all the money from this industry is going? Alain Rodier, in his book: The Triads: the hidden threat, indicates that the counterfeiting is linked with Chinese triads. They are using the money received from counterfeiting to invest in other illegal activities. However, the money can also be legally re-injected into the country. Alain Rodier argues that criminal money is largely reinvested in the country’s legal economy: “As far as the Chinese triads are concerned, they would have a worldwide turnover of 200 billion dollars. Much of this money is reinvested in the legal economy”. For instance, the Sun Yee On triad would have largely participated in the development of Shenzen. Even though triads and other organizations directly benefit of counterfeiting, it can be noted that this money is sometimes reinvested in the legal economy.

Rethinking the fashion industry

One way of tackle the fake industry is to completely change the opinion of people concerning clothing. Trends should focus more on quality than brands. Fast fashion might also be a big issue in consumption because of its impact on the environment. If the fashion industry evolves to its simplest form, people would not be sensitive to brand image. Without the importance of brand image, there is no demand for counterfeit luxury goods anymore. Naomie Klein with its book “no logo” lead this movement in the end of the 1990s. One way to wipe out counterfeits is to educate people to consume goods differently, without being obsessed with brands.

To conclude, the counterfeit industry is a direct consequence of the industrial growth in the country combined with the value placed on brand image. It is difficult to tackle this gigantic phenomenon generating billions each year. You have both to address the production and the consumption of counterfeit goods. The counterfeit goods industry is injuring companies because it negatively impacts their brand image, consumers who are genuinely interested in the luxury products may lose faith that what they are buying is authentic.

What brands can do to avoid intermixing with counterfeits in China

For luxury brands to avoid being sold alongside counterfeits, brands can try a brand independence, or direct to consumers strategy in China. Counterfeits are sold easily on e-commerce platforms, but selling from a brand’s own website, or brand.com, is a surefire way to avoid competing with counterfeits and keep a pure brand image.

Authors: Alison Bogy & Enzio Cacciotto

Daxue Consulting helps you get the best of the Chinese market. Do not hesitate to reach out to our project managers at dx@daxueconsulting.com to get all answers to your questions.

Luxury brands in China do not have to compete with counterfeits

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